Meditation on Haggis
In an attempt to celebrate my passion for food, I made myself a promise earlier this year: to eat whatever was put in front of me. Any preconceived notions of how I felt about one kind of food or another would be put to rest and I would bravely expose myself to the many unique cuisines that are celebrated (at least by somebody) across this planet. The plan had been going rather well. I had been invited to a charity dinner earlier in the week and the host restaurant offered an innovative fixed menu. I had the opportunity to eat swordfish, duck, while gently explaining to my dining companions that although sweetbreads (one of the other menu items) sound like something that just came out of the bakery oven, they are actually veal pancreas. Sweetbreads, as it turns out are delicious. That’s right, just because they’re offal doesn’t mean they’re awful. Having conquered fish, wild game, and internal organs, confidence in my abilities to eat the strange and wonderful were growing—perhaps a little too quickly—which is why, when sent an invite to a Robbie Burns Dinner hosted by one of my favourite fine dining establishments I jumped at the opportunity to sample the “Great Chieftain o’ the puddin-race,” the haggis.
Everyone has an opinion on haggis, regardless of whether they’ve eaten it or not. The knowledge that it’s traditionally served in a sheep’s stomach is often enough to churn the guts of even the bravest people that reside beyond the borders of Scotland. Haggis has become that rare dish were outsiders assume—perhaps safely—that no one outside of the country of origin would ever willingly eat such a concoction. On January 25th, in a celebration dedicated to Scotland’s Bard, I attempted to dispel the myths surrounding the legendary haggis.
Leah (my adventurous dining companion) and I had arrived at the restaurant and were seated amongst the brave and curious; I only felt slightly conspicuous without a family tartan—I’m not of Scottish ancestry and the closest I’m willing to get to a tartan is the Burberry plaid scarves I covet. Still, it was a welcoming group with that sense of camaraderie that can only be fostered through participation in something that falls well-outside the main stream—it’s a similar principle held dear during fraternity hazings: that which is strange and potentially unpleasant, brings us together. Some of my preparatory reading on haggis had suggested that it possessed a “spicy” flavour. I couldn’t wrap my head around what spice was indigenous to Scotland. I wondered whether the fabled shamrock is piquant. Leah and I ordered a glass of sparkling white before being served our first course, a bowl of cock-a-leekie soup. There’s rarely a more appropriate beverage than a tall glass of something bubbly. It signals the celebratory and has been known to elevate a meal beyond its humble origin. If the soup was any indication of the meal we’d be about to receive, than I for one was truly grateful. The rich broth was delicately accented with the aromatic leeks, but it was Leah who had identified the sweet and surprising treasure at the bottom of the bowl as sliced prunes. Our empty bowls retrieved, we sat back in eager anticipation of the main course. As the sounds of bagpipes filled the room via the tinny restaurant stereo we smiled wide, confident that not only would haggis be delicious, but that we’d be begging for seconds.
I thought I had mentally prepared for the oncoming haggis. I had rationalized that a sheep’s stomach is no worse than a natural casing on a good sausage. In fact, my haggis reading had suggested that the sheep’s stomach variety was a rarity these days, stomachs being supplanted by the more easily sourced (and less labour intensive) casing. I’d eaten Boudain about a year ago and it was pretty good, and in terms of questionable food no one really knows what goes into hotdogs anyways. In comparison, how bad could haggis be?
I’m not about to insult Scotland’s national dish or deride the people who appreciate haggis as comfort food, but whatever preparation I had gone through before gingerly shoveling that loamy loaf into my mouth was sorely inadequate. The smell was so overwhelming it was as if I had been sucker punched; my taste buds along with my psyche had been cold cocked; no less than three of my senses were currently under assault. There are times I’ve risked the potable and I’ve even consumed the unpalatable, but if there was a time in my life that I prayed for the hand of god to descend from heaven and anoint the food in front of me with holy hot sauce, this was that time. It turns out there is no spicy seasoning in Scotland; it is a cuisine based on the savory and bland where a simple onion not only constitutes rare herbs and seasoning, but potentially the vegetable component of a meal as well. If I had thought I was going to get away with my haggis being housed in a casing, I was mistaken. As rare as an authentically cooked haggis might be, the chef had done a noble job replicating this traditional food, and for a moment I fumbled in removing the inch thick rubber band of sheep gut that encased my slice of haggis; my heart sank as I let it fall lifeless near the edge of my plate. Children have been known to remove the crust from a slice of bread; I hoped I hadn’t transgressed culinary law too badly in removing the stomach peel from the (marginally) more enticing food on my plate. As I mentioned, this dinner was hosted in a fine dining establishment. “Fine dining” has become a euphemism for “you will not find salt or pepper on your table” and I toyed with the idea of crushing the lone flower that stood as the centerpiece of our table into a fine powder in hopes it would improve the taste of what was in front of me. I can only describe the flavour of haggis as robust—which really is the only word that can be used to describe the flavour of something made from sheep’s “pluck” (a combination of heart, liver and lungs). As a child my mother had fought battles over chicken hearts; my father had grown up on liver. I remember opening the fridge door as a child only to be confronted with a smoked beef tongue. Still, the idea of eating lung was entirely new (and somewhat unsettling) to me. My mind leapt into survival mode as I spread the inadequate helping of neeps (turnip) and tatties (mashed potatoes) over the haggis to create the illusion of shepherd’s pie.
A glance from Leah confirmed that her enthusiasm for our culinary adventure had worn thin; mine was close behind. Still, it was important for me to keep my promise and to eat anything that was put on my plate. Bite by nimble bite the massive helping of haggis began to diminish until finally with only the elastic tether of sheep’s stomach left, I rested my fork and knife across my plate to indicate to the waiter, that at his earliest convenience he remove my plate so that I might start repressing the memory of this dinner as quickly as possible. We beat a hasty retreat through desert, which in itself was a disappointing combination of whisky infused whipped cream coupled with raspberries and toasted oats. At this point I was looking forward to years of electroshock therapy in hopes it would mitigate the psychological scarring brought on by the consumption of Scotland’s national dish.
In North America we focus primarily on the muscular system of an animal for food, which despite being a great source of protein doesn’t hold a candle to the nutrient rich stores found in an animal’s internal organs. Although popular in certain areas, I challenge anyone to walk into their local grocery store and find internal organs on display in the meat department. My experience with the haggis may not stand as my personal high-water mark for culinary enjoyment, but of greater concern to me is that many North Americans have been led to believe that meat does not come from animals, but exclusively from the butcher’s refrigerated display case, and then only in the form of steaks and chops.
I ate enough haggis that night to make me confident that were I to eat it three more times, I could actually eat it without a grimace on my face. The cultural hurdle of tying into a dish composed of not one, but at least three internal organs was just a little more than my fragile North American mindset could handle. We left the restaurant; the only thing I took with me was the warped sense of pride in having finished my entire plate of haggis. It’s a strange sensation to be able to hold your head high and for a moment, actually salvage some dignity in having accomplished something you otherwise found unpleasant. It’s an absurd sensation like being proud of unclogging the toilet, but here I was, a smile on my face as if I had just high-fived the nurse after a colonoscopy.














